READY is a cleaner and de-glosser. It helps prepare your piece for maximum paint adhesion.
Spray the READY product on your furniture to clean and prepare the surface for painting. Let it sit for about a minute, then wipe away with a lint free cloth. If there is any sheen left to your piece, repeat the process. Paint needs a clean and de-glossed surface for maximum adhesion.
No READY is basically odor-free. It's perfectly fine to use indoors.
Pretty far, but it's hard to quantify. It's very dependent on the user. We offer a 2 ounce size that will generally handle one, sometimes two, pieces of furniture.
We find that READY works about 99 out of 100 times to prepare a surface for painting. If you are the 1 out a 100 that READY does not degloss your surface enough for maximum adhesion, then we recommend scuffing the surface with a medium grit sanding block. Generally, a piece does not need to be sanded, only scuffed. The surface just needs some ‘teeth’ for adhesion.
KELLIE'S TIP: If you keep your fingernails painted - be sure to wear gloves when using READY. Because of it's de-glossing property, it will remove the pretty shine from your manicure!
The Enhance Glaze products are used to give a painted piece depth and dimension by bringing in an additional color
Velvet Finishes offers two Glaze products, a Dark Glaze and a Clear Glaze.
Apply ENHANCE GLAZE with The Reviver brush, or other high quality brush, and wipe off with a cheesecloth or other lint-frees cloth, allowing the GLAZE to collect in grooves and recesses.
ENHANCE GLAZE acts as a sealer for your projects and adds a slight level of shine. No need to use the PROTECT if the ENHANCE GLAZE is used.
Kellie’s Tips: It is important to remove any excess GLAZE before it begins to dry, as the rubbing may pull off the paint. Basically, the GLAZE will reactivate the paint.
If, after you glaze, you would like the glaze to look darker or you want more glaze in a particular area, let your first coat dry thoroughly. If you glaze again while the glaze is still tacky, you will pull it all off when you use your rag.
ENHANCE DARK GLAZE is fairly close to the gorgeous color of TIMELESS, a rich neutral gray. It is beautiful over every COLOUR in the VF line. It’s even beautiful over the TIMELESS paint COLOUR, as it just gives a Timeless painted piece, a little more depth.
ENHANCE CLEAR GLAZE: If the DARK GLAZE is not the perfect color for your project, we offer an ENHANCE CLEAR GLAZE. ENHANCE CLEAR GLAZE can be mixed with any paint COLOUR to create a unique glaze color.
Kellie’s Tip: With my lazy painter ways you will rarely find me measuring when I mix COLOUR to the CLEAR GLAZE. When I’m being a mixologist, if I want the glaze color more intense, I add more paint and if I want it less, I add more glaze. I try not to make big work of it all. BUT!!!! If you are doing a large piece…measure. You do not want to end up with different glaze colors on your piece because you had to mix a second batch and didn’t know your ratios.
PROTECT product is a specially formulated, commercial grade, non-yellowing satin polyacrylic. It has a low matte sheen finish, which is a slightly higher sheen than COLOUR.
PROTECT adds a layer of protection between the paint surface and the world.
PROTECT can be applied with a brush or a roller. You can use the same Reviver brush used for COLOUR. If applying with a roller, roll slowly, as rolling can cause bubbles.
Because the finish of PROTECT has a slightly higher sheen than COLOUR, apply in straight lines as best as possible.
Kellie's Tips: Be sure to apply in a generous amounts, as applying sparingly can cause streaking.
Kellie's Tips: If I am poly-ing a dark piece, I like to tint the poly with the paint. Because of the slightly higher sheen of Protect, it can show streaking if not applied carefully.
There's no real formula for doing this I just add COLOUR to PROTECT so that streaks are a non issue. Applying the PROTECT doesn't have to be done quite so carefully if tinted.
You can also apply PROTECT and apply COLOUR as your final coat. That provides the protection, without the additional sheen, which some prefer.
We feel PROTECT is a must if you have a high traffic piece – like a dining table, the tops of a nightstand, a bookcase shelf. Otherwise, COLOUR dries to a nice, hard surface. However, we are in the habit of using either Protect or the Enhance Glaze on all the pieces we do as a matter of practice.
If you feel you need extra-extra protection for your piece, simply apply additional coats. You do not have to sand in-between coats like most poly’s, just let it dry and apply again.
The short answer is yes, but PROTECT is a specifically made to work with Velvet Finishes, in that we recognize working with poly can be difficult, and have created a formula to make it easier. Not all poly’s are created equal.
NO! Once you apply PROTECT, unless you sand it off, it doesn’t come off.
Distressing your piece is an easy way to create an aged look for your furniture. Simply distress the edges and areas of detail that you would like to show wear – such as behind a drawer pull or furniture edges.
Kellie's Tips: Distressing is easy but there is a bit of an art to it. The 2 biggest challenges I see people face is (1) they do not know where, on their piece, to distress and (2) that it scares them to sand on a perfectly good paint job! Do not be afraid - it's only paint. If you hate it, repaint it!
To create a natural worn look, only distress where the natural wear would be - the handles of an arm chair, the edges of drawers, behinds drawer/cabinet pull - places like that.
If you really want a distressed look, distress more, but still only distress in natural wear areas.
And please, please, please avoid what I call the 'leopard look by distressing'. If you are distressing the flat surface of a table, do the edges. If you want more, do fewer, larger areas, rather than a ton of little spots. I. Beg. Of. You.
Remember your piece will probably have a lamp or books placed on it, so keep your accessories in mind too, when sanding.
The three ways to distress are:
Wet Distressing: A very simple way to distress by simply using a damp, lint-free rag. Rub the painted surface, while still wet, with the cloth and the paint will begin to thin and remove.
Kellie's Tip: For the wet distressing technique, make sure you work fairly quickly and do not allow the paint to dry too much. If it is dry in an area you want to distress, apply a small amount of paint to reactivate the paint. This, along with the dampness of your rag, should be all that is necessary.
Wet distressing is perfect if you only want to reveal the finished color of the wood you have painted, rather than distressing with a sander which will reveal the raw wood as well.
You cannot wet distress once the paint is cured.
Distressing with a Sanding Block: We recommend using an 80 to 120 grit block for distressing. Simply apply pressure when using the block and work in straight lines, as best as possible.
Remember the lower the number the coarser the grit.
Kellie's Tip: Do your distressing in a moderate amount, stand back and determine if you need to go over any areas. If you are not sure how distressed you want a piece to be, sand lightly - you can always go back over the piece. If you over sand, just repaint the area. No big deal.
Distressing with an Electric Sander: Using an electric sander is the fastest way to sand. For larger pieces of furniture the electric sander is usually the best choice.
Kellie's Tips: I love the Ryobi Corner Cat Sander available at Home Depot. The shape allows you to do small nooks and crannies, as well as cover larger areas quickly. The best tip I can share about sanding through paint is to use enough pressure - if you do not, you will have these weird little circular patterns that show up in the finish. Sand it like you mean it people!
What I love most about the electric sanding method (other than it is super fast) is that it gives you additional levels of color. Meaning: when you wet distress, you only reveal the finish of the wood and when you electric sand you actually go through the finish to the wood. With electric sanding you have the paint COLOUR, the finish of the wood AND the actual wood showing. If your piece has been painted previously painted you will also reveal that layer.
No, Velvet Finishes products do not require special brushes, however best results are seen with a good quality brush.
Our polyester bristle brushes, aptly named - THE REVIVER - are perfect for painting VF products. The bristles are just the right amount of stiff and they are available in 5 sizes.
There is no need for multiple types of brushes. The Reviver brushes can be used for either VF COLOUR, ENHANCE and PROTECT products.
Kellie's Tip: Natural hair bristles become overly saturated in water based paints and become heavy and 'floppy'. The longer the bristle, the 'floppier' they become. And nobody likes a floppy bristle. We advise against using natural hair brushes for best results.
To clean your brush, simply rinse under faucet in tepid water until clear water is seen. Clean up is a snap with Velvet Finishes! No special soaps or products needed.
Kellie's Tip: If you can hang your brush upside down for drying, do. If not, absorb the excess water with a towel or rag and prop the brush on something so that the bristles are not touching anything. After your brush is dry, store it in the bristle cover that came with the brush. This will help keep the bristles in the best shape possible and extend the life of the brush. Good brushes aren't cheap, but they will last for years if well taken care of.
Kellie's Tip: Brushes wet with paint may be stored for later use. Place brush end in a storage baggy, mush the bristles in the bag and store in a cool place. Use within a couple of days or rinse paint out of brush. Do not allow the paint to dry on the brush.
Our ENHANCE GEL replaces wax, for times when we want the waxed look. Apply the GEL product with a lint-free rag, making sure to get the product into the grooves you would like to give added depth. Rub with the rag to smooth the GEL and allow a small amount to be drug over the flat surfaces of your piece for a rich, waxed look.
Kellie's Tip: The GEL is of a pudding consistency and so easy to use! Since it does not smell bad like petroleum-based waxes, you can use inside your house, just like the COLOUR and ENHANCE GLAZE.
A general rule of thumb is you can always gloss up on a painted piece with very little prep. However, Velvet Finishes is a flat finish paint so it is the lowest gloss level. Make sure to begin with a deglossed surface. If you do not want to use the READY, then we recommend cleaning and sanding.
Yes, but prep is key. There are many different types of laminates, some are very smooth while others have a grain. We recommend scuffing the surface with a medium grit sanding block prior to using READY. Always do a test spot before proceeding with the entire project for adhesion.
No. Applying Velvet Finishes over an existing peeling paint will not work. Scuff the flaking pieces off until there is no more flaking.
Yes. Velvet Finishes will work great on tight weave fabrics such as cotton and linens. Simply apply as if the surface were wood. If the dried fabric feels a little stiff, lightly scuff with a fine grit sanding block to softened.
Velvet Finishes will NOT work on fabrics with a nap, such as velvets or chenilles.
Also understand that if you are painting a fabric with a pattern in the weave, that pattern will not disappear. In other words, you can change the color, but not eliminate a woven pattern.
Yes. Simply clean with READY and paint with COLOUR. We see great results with painted leather. However, if the leather is peeling, painting will not correct this.